Vader86’s The Superram

The Superram, and reasons to use it or other intakes
This is the best how-to and info compilation I could put together with the forum archives, its mainly for my own benefit, but I would welcome any ‘gotchas’ that I have left out or information that I’ve put here that is incorrect.

First step, pick your combination.

Not everything works well with everything else, by that I mean you must pick out a strategy for significant mods rather than just picking a set of heads, a cam, and an intake and throwing it all together and expecting it to work perfectly. The Superram is a lower/midrange intake, whereas the TPI is mainly a low-end intake with its tuned design and the Miniram/LT1 is a high-end intake with its short runners.

If I am planning to run a 350ci bottom, getting an extraordinarily large set of heads, like 195-200cc+, is going to hurt optimum performance altogether. Large ports=high rpm power, basically, and these heads wont come into their own until the point where the SR is beginning to fall on its face. Likewise, heads in the stock range, 150-160cc, are torquey but arent going to flow the air that the SR can get to them in midrange and higher rpms for HP. So, for a 350, 170-185 cc would be perfect for the SR or just about any other intake system. Preferably on the larger side of that. For a 383, the fact that you have the extra displacement will improve torque and require you to pick a slightly larger port on the heads to feed it at high rpms. Here, the 190-200cc head would be perfect. I still wouldnt go further than 200, if the motor is Naturally-aspirated.

The essence of this argument is port velocity.
High port velocity=torque.
Large ports=smaller velocity at low rpm, higher velocity at high rpm=>HP.
Small ports=high velocity at low rpm, and inability to flow the air needed for top-end HP. This is the basis for the TPI-head combination at the factory.

Likewise, it applies to the intakes, but with regard to runner length. Long runners (TPI)=high port velocity at low rpm, and the port is so small that it cant feed the bottom end at higher rpm, its tuned for low-end use with the cam’s opening of the valves. Short runners(LT1/MR)=high velocity at high rpm. SR is in-between with runners about half as long as TPI.

Cam-SR is made to use with the Accel 74219, with specs of 219/219@.050″, which is the only spec I really look at. LSA determines alot of the overlap and “lopey” cams have shorter LSAs. Its a very versatile cam and is appropriate for NA 350s and 383s, but lopes more with the 350. LPE/Accel has a blower grind that was tested on a SR. I believe it is a 74220 with 215/220 duration and around 560 lift. LPEs 350 test engine made over 625hp on their engine dyno with 8 PSI of boost

My reason for picking the SR should be obvious by now. Its going to give me roughly equal bottom-end to the original TPI, alot better midrange, and although it may only flow to 6000-6500rpm it will do alot better than the TPI at those higher rpms. Most of us dont spend time at those rpm anyway, and the bottom-end of the motor will need to be built specifically for that use, whereas the SR only needs what already comes with L98s.

Its better suited for the automatic transmission as well. MR/LT1 needs that high rpm use that most A4 drivers dont get to.

It doesnt need rear gear either, 3.07 is perfect for it and timeslips show no substantial gains (and sometimes losses) from those who add 3.54 or lower.

Flow numbers for the various manifolds and runners, plus some helpful fuel pressure info

Some possibly helpful “before” pics that were posted on the forum years ago, note where the lines and fittings are, thats the whole point.

Installation of the Superram
Here are the instructions included with the kit:


ACCEL SuperRam Plenum/Runner Kit is a direct bolt-on replacement but offers improved performance and fuel economy potential. Consisting of the Lingenfelter designed plenum and runners, this new SuperRam Plenum/Runner configuration significantly improves volumetric efficiency for more horsepower and torque. The plenum lid is removable to enable plenum-to-runner port matching. Optional billet plenum lid part #74198.

Please read the following instructions carefully before installing your new SuperRam Plenum/Runner Kit. Also we recommend that you study your applicable OEM service manual before you begin your installation. Please make a note of your engine configuration with special attention to all vacuum, fuel, and electrical connections for your future reference. It is a good habit to tag each part from your engine upon removal. This will help facilitate your re-assembly. If you have any questions or problems, please contact our tech line at (313) 380-1328.

Before beginning your installation, make sure that you have the following parts:

Supplied with the SuperRam Plenum/Runner Kit:

17 � -28 x 1/2 Button head screws
16 � -28 x � 12 pt Head bolts
4 M8 x 25 Socket Head Bolts
4 M8 x 30 Socket Head Bolts
1 M6 x 12 Screw
1 90 Degrees Brass Fitting � �� NPT
1 Cold start block off kit
1 Gasket Set, Runners, Box
1 13� 11/32 Vacuum line
2 3/8� NPT Pipe plugs
1 �� NPT pipe plug

Something you’ll need, the bracket for the TV cables:
Summit has it for $21.69 ACC-74200,
and a new 12-pt Sears wratcheting wrench.


The following is a list of what is not included with this kit, but is suggested by ACCEL for ease of installation:

Loctite 262 thread locking compound
Anti-seize lubricant
Fel-Pro #229 silicone rubber adhesive sealant
Plastic locating pins from stock gaskets
OEM approved valve cover gaskets
Digital volt meter


1. Disconnect battery.
2. Drain coolant.
3. Disconnect throttle linkages, cable retaining bracket.
4. Disconnect air inlet tube from throttle body and air cleaner assembly.
5. Remove throttle body bolts.
6. Disconnect TPS and IAC electrical connections.
7. Disconnect vacuum lines, better label them too.



1. Carefully disconnect fuel lines from intake assembly. Watch out for spraying fuel! Be sure this operation is done on a cold engine.
2. Remove and SAVE runner bolts and plenum assembly.
3. Push fuel rail assembly up to clear runners.
4. Remove runners and gaskets, save the OEM plastic locating pins for later re-assembly.


1. Remove fuel rail assembly. Be careful for any residual fuel left in the fuel rail.
2. Remove spark plug wires and distributor cap.
3. Rotate engine manually to top dead center with distributor rotor pointing to cap location cylinder #1 and mark for proper installation.
4. Remove distributor.
5. Remove all fittings, sensor, etc� from your OEM plenum and intake. Please note location where removed from. This will facilitate re-assembly later.


Tips I’ve added:
1. Buy a shitload of RTV and loctite and “the Right Stuff”, use it on everything. Check machining for EGR slots. On mine a runner slot went past manifold gasket causing leak.
2. Bench fit it (or dry fit it on the installed base) so as to ID any problem areas. At that time, you’ll see the difficulty lining everything up and physically getting to the two center bolts from the runners to the plenum. At this time, check the runner to plenum gaskets and trim as req’d. These new gaskets now have siamesed openings and needed considerable trimming on my unit last month on my R&R;
3. I would recommend studding the two center runner bolt holes up into the plenum, and slightly enlarging the corresponding plenum holes when you drill out the threads. This will give you a little extra play when you drop the plenum on the runners. Use locktite on the locknuts inside the plenum;
4. When you start the actual install, use “The Right Stuff” as a sealant. Be careful not to let it ooze into the air flow areas. Start the runner bolts, leaving the runners loose for play, then drop the plenum and get the runner bolts started up into the plenum.
5. Once all bolts are started, work your way around taking things up slowly to reduce any binding…….do this till things are all snug, then install the locknuts inside the plenum if you go that route.
6. Before you begin the install, carefully examine the runners. One of them has an angled crossover opening and one of them has a vertical crossover opening. Those will help you determine which side is which….it is very easy to install them wrong if you don’t do this!
7. Slot plenum mounting screws so they can be inserted by screw driver from top.
8. You have to grind bolt heads or grind runners on inner runner bolts.

The rest of these I’ve edited where needed:

1. Install all sensors, fittings, etc� on your new ACCEL/Lingenfelter plenum and runners. Be sure to put sealer on threads. Install the two (2) 3/8 pipe plugs into threaded holes inside your new plenum. You should use Loctite 262 or equivalent and stake the plugs with a punch or chisel to prevent loosening.
2. Clean Clean Clean block front and rear manifold valley surfaces. Apply a thin bead of silicone to end rails and install intake gaskets. I used a spring punch to dimple both surfaces to give silicon sealant more bite to block. For an untouched Accel base, a 1204 is probably the best fit.A 1205 will seal, but the printoseal will be visable at the corners of the intake ports. Your heads might be a better fit for the 1205 and you can port match the base to that and it will work fine.
3. Apply silicone sealer to intake manifold bolts and torque bolts to manufacturer�s specifications. Before installing base check alignment of rear machined surface with block mating surface. Make sure they align or replace manifold. Follow this bolt sequence, as the Helm has mistakes in some years:
12-11-4-1-5-6 front of intake
10-9-3-2-7-8 front of intake

4. Re-install distributor, cap, and wires.
5. You will be required to remove valve covers and rocker arms for cylinders 2,3,6, and 7 exhaust only. If removed, re-install rocker arms and set according to OEM specs. If not, get long hex wrenches with universal ends. I bought a Sears 1/4″ offset ratcheting wrench to access some of the bolts. I bought a bunch of 1″ long 1/4-20 set screws threaded into plenum to align with runners. I then removed set screws on by one as I threaded in bolts.
6. Check alignment on runner gaskets. Some trimming may be required.
7. Apply a thin film of silicone to the runner gaskets, then carefully install the gaskets.
8. Carefully start the bottom runner bolts first (M8X25). Then slide runner over these bolts. Remember to always lubricate all bolts with an anti-seize compound.
9. Gently apply a small amount of lubricant to the injector O-rings.
10. Install fuel rails, but do not tighten them.
11. Install 4 � M8x30 bolts in the outside runner holes. Then install the original equipment runner bolts in the remaining holes.
12. On applications where the cold start solenoid is not used, a block off plug and plate with an O-ring is supplied. This should be installed in the machined hole in the drivers side runner and held in with a runner bolt.
13. Tighten fuel rail bolts
14. NOTE: On some applications the fuel injectors may slightly interfere with the SuperRam runners. To correct this problem you can increase the clearance by carefully filing the interference area with a file.

15. Lay T.V. cable on top of intake.
16. Apply a thin film of silicone to the plenum/runner gaskets and carefully install them.
17. Install the SuperRam plenum. Be sure to check that all sensors are installed and then connect the MAT sensor.
18. Carefully install the bolts from the runners to the SuperRam plenum. Do not tighten until all bolts have been started. These bolts thread up into the box.
19. Install the two original vacuum fittings, from the original plenum, into the rear of the SuperRam plenum. The 90 degree brass fitting installs in the hole of the driver side. On 1985-89 vehicles you should install the M6x12 screw in the small hole next to the vacuum fittings and the 1/4 pipe plug in the third threaded hole. On 1990-91 vehicles, this hole locates the MAP sensor. Install your vacuum fitting for the MAP sensor in the third hole. Be sure to apply silicone to all fittings to prevent vacuum leaks.
20. Carefully remove the fittings from the power brake booster. Remove the steel line and the factory vacuum hose. Install the 11/32� vacuum line. Some trimming may be necessary. The opposite end connects to the 90 degree brass fitting. This step replaces the OEM factory power brake vacuum line with a new rubber hose assembly. Be sure to carefully check power brake function before operation of vehicle.
21. Apply a thin film of silicone to the intake plenum box and install intake plenum top. Before installing the runners go ahead and drill out the runner/plenum holes in the runners with a 5/16″ drill bit. This size gave a little bit of adjustment room and still allows the bolts that come in the kit to be used without washers. We had to do this because once the runners were bolted in place on the manifold the holes were off by almost 1/16″ on one side of the runners.
22. Carefully start all top bolts but do not tighten until all bolts have been started.
23. Install throttle body and gasket.
24. Reconnect all vacuum lines, electrical connections, and intake ducting. For PCV, you are going to have to replace that hard formed line with the 1988 and up version. The 85-87 hard formed lines do not fit under the superram runners. There is another one on the passenger side.
25. Install valve cover gaskets and valve covers.
26. Carefully connect fuel lines and any coolant system hose.
27. Replace coolant.
28. Reconnect battery.


1. Check TPS voltage.
1985-89 Idle voltage should be .54 volts
1990-91 Idle voltage should be .70 volts
2. Check initial timing and reset to 6 degrees (with ignition bypass disconnected) for best performance.
Please note: Retard timing if you have any problems with detonation.
3. Your Idle Air Control motor (IAC) may need to be adjusted to allow the computer to provide
proper idle. See GM service manual for instructions.

Studding the Plenum Pictures:

GM High Tech Article on adding SR to 396.
Dynamic compression ratio
Porting the TPI

The Nest – All things crowz….